Pagrati: The cool corner of Athens

Pagrati, tucked east of the National Garden and next to Kolonaki, is where real Athenian life unfolds. It may not have Plaka’s landmarks or Kolonaki’s luxury, but it wins you over with its authentic vibe, tight-knit community, and mix of old and new. Explore bustling markets, cozy tavernas, lively cafés, and green spots that offer a break from the city’s buzz.

What to do in Pagrati

Pagrati offers a delightful mix of experiences, from immersing yourself in local life to discovering hidden cultural gems.

Exploring the neighborhood:

Pagrati is a neighborhood best explored on foot, allowing you to soak in its authentic atmosphere.

• Alsos Pagratiou: This small “forest,” or “grove,” is a green oasis in the middle of the neighborhood, offering a playground, a cafe, an open-air cinema, and an open-air theater.
• Profitis Ilias: This hill is the highest point of the neighborhood, on which the homonymous church is located. It offers great views of the city.
• Agios Spyridonas Church: It’s a beloved spot for both locals and visitors, offering a glimpse into the area’s rich religious and cultural history.
• Varnava Square: This square has become a popular hangout in recent years, thanks to its selection of restaurants, cafes, and bars.
• Plastira Square: This is a more laid-back square, with a playground, a few cafes, and a meeting point for many locals.
• Filolaou Street: This street is home to many traditional tavernas, restaurants, and cafes.
• Effranoros Street: This street is where many of the area’s most well-known bars are located.
• Empedokleous Street: This street, and the square it ends at, is another popular meeting point, thanks to its cafes and bars.

Cultural experiences:

• Goulandris Museum of Modern Art: This impressive museum, located at the edge of Pagrati, near the Panathenaic Stadium, features works by prominent European artists like Monet, Degas, and Picasso, as well as important Greek painters.

Cafe culture and nightlife:

Pagrati’s cafe scene is thriving, with a mix of traditional kafeneia and trendy, modern spots.

• Best Cafes:
  • Chelsea Hotel: Despite its name, this is a popular all-day bar, known for its lively atmosphere.
  • Petite Fleur: An all-day cafe with a focus on coffee and brunch.
• Best Bars:
  • Arbaroriza: A great, atmospheric bar, known for its long list of cocktails.
  • Berlin by 5 drunk men: With a great selection of beers, and yummy finger food.

Dining in Pagrati

Pagrati’s food scene is a delicious reflection of its authentic character, with a focus on traditional Greek cuisine.

• Traditional Tavernas:
  • Karavitis: A classic taverna operating since 1926, known for its grilled meats and traditional dishes.
  • Mavro Provato: This mageirio (eatery) offers a wide selection of traditional Greek dishes.
  • Spondi: This 2-Michelin star restaurant offers a world-class fine dining experience.
• Modern Greek:
  • Cookoovaya: While located near the border with the Ilisia neighborhood, this restaurant is within walking distance, and offers a great option for contemporary Greek food.
  • Colibri: Famous among Athenians for its pizza and its burgers.
• International:
  • Baba Ganoush: A fab middle-Eastern vegetarian restaurant.
  • Tre Sorelle: Pizza and pasta in a cozy setting.

Local Specialties: Pagrati is an excellent place to enjoy classic Greek dishes like moussaka, pastitsio, grilled meats, and fresh seafood.

Markets in Pagrati

• Pagrati Street Market (Laiki): Every Tuesday, a “Laiki” takes place on on Spyrou Merkouri Street (near the Panathenaic Stadium), offering fresh produce, local cheeses, honey, and other regional products. Additionally, every Friday a “Laiki” takes place on Archimidous Street.
• Local Shops: Pagrati is filled with small shops and bakeries where you can find local delicacies and everyday essentials.

Accommodation in Pagrati

• Boutique Hotels:
  • Divani Caravel: A grand hotel very close to the National Gallery, is within walking distance of Pagrati’s main areas.
• Airbnb: Pagrati offers a wide range of apartments for rent, providing an authentic and often budget-friendly alternative to hotels.

Getting to Pagrati

• By Metro: The closest metro station is Evangelismos on the Blue Line (M3), although it is not technically inside the neighborhood. The Panathenaic Stadium is also close to Syntagma station (Red and Blue Lines).
• By Bus: Several bus lines serve the area.
• Walking: Walkable from Kolonaki (15-20 minutes), Syntagma (20-25 minutes), and the National Garden (10-15 minutes).
• From Athens Airport: Take the Blue Line (M3) metro to Evangelismos.
• From Piraeus Port: Take the Green Line (M1) to Omonia, then transfer to the Red Line (M2) to Syntagma, and then take a bus, a trolley, or simply walk.

Nearby ancient sights & other landmarks

Pagrati’s location offers relatively easy access to several important sites:

• Panathenaic Stadium: A 5-10 minute walk.
• The Acropolis: A 30-40 minute walk, or a short bus/taxi ride away.
• Temple of Olympian Zeus: A 20-minute walk.
• Hadrian’s Arch: Also a 20-minute walk.

Why you should visit Pagrati

Pagrati is more than just a neighborhood; it’s a microcosm of Athens itself. It’s a place where tradition and modernity intertwine, where the simple pleasures of life are celebrated, and where the warmth of the local community is palpable. Pagrati invites you to step off the well-trodden tourist path and discover a more authentic side of Athens. So, wander its streets, savor its flavors, and let Pagrati’s genuine charm work its magic on you.

Local knowledge/Insider tips:

• Best time to visit: Pagrati is enjoyable year-round. Spring and fall offer pleasant weather. Summer evenings are particularly lively.
• Hidden gem: Explore the small streets around Varnava Square for a true sense of local life and some excellent hidden cafes and tavernas.
• Best photo spot: The hill of Profitis Ilias offers great views of the city. Also, the area around the Panathenaic Stadium offers great photo opportunities.
• Pagrati is generally safe, but as always, be mindful of your belongings in crowded areas.